Plight of a Pilot

Over a week ago I came across a video on Facebook of a half submerged, half floating carcass of an as yet unidentifiable toothed whale.

I correctly identified this animal for the unsure person as a Long-finned Pilot whale going by its bulbous head, muscular demeanor, well rounded dorsal fin and of course it's long pectoral fins or flippers. The animal was rather well rotten in the video and it also appeared to be the same carcass reported floating near the Lemon rock to the North of Lambs head days earlier before managing to manoeuvre itself into a well protected natural harbour at Lambs head. 

It was dead over two weeks and resembled melted cheese in some spots, it was also largely yellow as its black skin had peeled away since its death somewhere at sea, probably miles offshore in the deeper waters in which this sociable species is commonly sighted.

The whales white oil/blubber underwater looking like drying paint.

After seeing the video and subsequent still shots of this bull Pilot whales teeth I decided to take a trip back to Derrynane to possibly obtain a tooth to figure out how old this whale was.

That Saturday was a dreary affair inundated with thick misty rain that could soak you considerably in very little time.

It took no time at all to find the whales carcass as it was at the side of the pier but set Hong was up, quite literally... The tide.

The whales bloated body floated in the narrow cove over some ten foot of water, and I didn't fancy a swim in the whale oil filled waters so all I could do was watch from above of this animals bizarre yet amazingly streamlined body bob in the calm provided in the rocky cove. It was my second ever encounter with a Pilot but both individuals were dead.

I was asked how did it die but there's no way of telling when a whale is in the state that bull was. Interestingly the rock face opposite the carcass appeared as if it had been painted recently by a white substance which rolled downwards as if it were excess bits of paint all while being underwater!

Note the fence post that was probably used to take the whales teeth.

I returned the following day on the second low tide, the whale was once again in place but this time it was land bound. It's carcass looked like a twenty foot rag doll just tossed onto the rocks in an untimely manner. After dining a pair of wellies I made my way down the grassy trail to the whales shingle beach. Being careful not to touch anything and picking my footholds carefully to avoid slipping on the whales oil I passed both the unknown paint like substance plastered on the rock face to my right which was not clearly a combination of oil,flesh and blubber a refreshing combination! While doing so I passed a fence post with a noticeable wet patch near its point, then it was upon me. Despite being right next to a fairground well rotten carcass I didn't get effected by its faint smell or displeasing look. Angling my head so as to gaze into its mouth without touching the rocks right by it, it was clear that the teeth were gone most likely because the nearby fence post was used by some one to prop the whales mouth open during the previous low tide earlier that morning, alas the teeth were gone but the carpals or finger bones on one of the Pilot whales flippers were strewn across the narrow strand like white shells.

Part of one of the Pilot's pectoral fins skeletal structure.

Climbing up from the strand and looking down on the carcass it's amazing how many species are out there beyond the horizon but tragic that such encounters are often the only way you might experience such a mammal for yourself in the flesh!

A somewhat graphic view of the bulls head.

Swift Spotting

Earlier today I took it upon myself to scout my town for Swift colonies, this summer bird has captivated me ever since my early days. My very first bird field guide stated that this small blade-like winged bird could sleep while flying and would only land while at their nest, such facts fascinated me at an early age but it was years before I sighted these blackened sky slicers for myself.

Reading about the birds of Killarney National park in a publication of the same name I was dismayed by the apparent low breeding pairs in the park back in the 1980's standing at around four pairs residing at Killarney house at that time.

It was a cloudy school day and I was out in the schools pitch half heartdly participating in some sport or activity I didn't care for when I heard a series of unusual schreeches approaching from overhead at speed from the cathedral, moments later my eyes caught sight of the small streamlined birds enroute, they were too big for a swallow or martin and flapped their sharply edged wings with less frequency than the latter and former species, by using my powers of deduction and factoring in the fact that these screeching birds were coloured black there was no doubt that I was watching my first swifts wizz by! in all (if I recall correctly) there was about thirteen which thankfully is a vast improvement in about twenty years by some margin.

Back to today I went for a spin on the bike around various spots around Killarney to see if Swifts were present. Starting on the hill lingering above Fitzgeralds stadium and then down to St Columbanus's where I took all of the images displayed in this post. Six birds were definitely present but there was likley to be more as I was watching the one side of this widespread old stone building. There was a nest site or nest in development by a gutter and two birds whixxed past me by a couple of centimeteres at one stage! Its hard to describe the speed these birds travel and swevel at so just try to imagine a giabt, hyperactive swallow. Needless to say its a tricky job trying to follow and photograph swifts, who for the most part fly at high altitudes but I was fortunate today at my first attempt at capturing these birds on the wing.

After counting (as best I could) the swifts around St Columbanus's I cycled into town wgere I could hear swifts in numbers over head being masked by the cencrete environment. The highest numbers I encountered were near the town centre where 8 or more birds were circling high up near the direction of the sun which made counting harder.

Based on todays first skim over look at some the swifts of Killarney they seem to be faring well with some 26 birds across four distinct areas but there may well be more locations I've overlooked.
I have some ideas that will be of benifit to this African migrant in the town but it may be awhile until they might become a reality, regardless the numbers encountered today were well above what I had imagined in areas I wouldn't have considered but this was a preliminary scouting excercise that will likley be of benefit for any developments in the near future.

Circumnavigating Killarneys lakes

Today inpreparation for cycling the 180km ring of Kerry in the coming months I decided to head through the Macgillycuddy's reeks and onto the National Park.
After leaving the house the first port of call was the Gap of Dunloe, a glacial valley characterized by some expansive interlocking spurs. There are three lakes up the gap but I encountered no interesting wildlife while passing through. The valley is a popular spot for tourists and lies near the western boundary of Killarney National Park.
Today was sunny and the gap became a giant steam room as I cycled upwards onto the crest of the valleys main ridge, only grinding to a halt at one time. I only took a handful of images in the gap as I opted for speed of up to some 47km as I descended into the Black Valley.

Within the Gap of Dunloe.

It didn't take long for me to reach the park after leaving the gap and I was soon along the shores of the Upper Lake which is nestled within the regions mountains.
It's an area I haven't visited in about three years and is also not frequented by tourists as often as other parts of the park.  The lake is inundated by a series of islands covered by native flora.
The track was not suitable for cycling at times but that suited me as I stopped on numerous occasions to take photos.

After leaving the open, flat ground adjacent to the lake I came into the areas oak woods which were on higher ground over a series of small hills.
Derrycunnighy beckoned next where I stopped to have a look at a little-known waterfall just off the path.

Next stop was the main Kenmare road that would bring me back to Killarney which was still within the park but provided me with a better surface to cycle on.
Approaching Eagles Nest mountain a very small mammal scurried across the road in front of me with something in its mouth. I applied the back brake duly and it gave out a screech which startled the Stoat causing it to release its prey and hop over the wall it was heading towards, its prey ran for cover next to the wall. I stayed around for a few minutes to see if I could get a half decent shot of the Stoat that was hanging around with the ipod.
The Stoat let out the occasional concerned call as it bound back and forth on the opposite side of the wall while I was near his prey so I moved away and it returned to move in to dispatch its prey which was a young rabbit that screamed for about a minute as the Stoat killed it, I then moved on to leave the Stoat be with its food, this sighting was the best I've ever had of a mammal you can't plan on encountering.

A heavily cropped image showing the Stoat before it moved in for the kill.

Next brief stop on the cycle was at the smallest of the Killarney lakes, Muckross and then onto Lough Leane and then back to Killarney itself.
All in all it was a decent day but I should have brought the proper camera with me as the Stoat came within FEET of me but theres always next time.

Here are some more images from the cycle.

The Upper lake.

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The Upper lake again.

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An Oak canopy.

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A panoramic of the Upper lake.

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Moss covered rocks.

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The dead and living!

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The native white flowering of the Hawthorn and pink of the introduced rhododendron.

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The mountain side burned recently, now recovering.

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Some "artwork".

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The Upper lake.

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The original Stoat shot, see if you can spot it!

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Muckross lake.

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Heeding the nearby signs message....

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Flowering invasive rhododendron.

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Bluebells

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And finally Lough Leane, Killarney's largest lake.

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Aerial acrobats turned feathery torpedoes

Dingle hatbours outskirts.

Last Saturday (2nd) while out searching for a Harbour Porpoise carcass around Dingle harbour that had been reported only a day before, I noticed a familiar sight just outside the mouth of the harbour, that of falling shard-like birds as they plunged into the Atlantic trough.

Continuing my search further South from the town of Dingle itself (while losing hope of finding this particular Porpoise) I began to climb the Eastern cliffs that guard the harbours only entrance. To my right lay a relatively calm patch of Atlantic surf compared to the churning body of the adjacent Dingle bay which was feeling the full wrath of the North Eastern Atlantic. In this area of calm three boats emerged from the sheltered harbour on a mission: to find Fungie.
Fungie is an adult solitary Bottlenose dolphin who has made this harbour his home since the eighties and as such he has become a source of revenue for a collection of boat bearing residents. Two of the boats I could see before me were packed with tourists while the smallest (a dinghy) was a private boat. All they wanted was to catch sight of this resident dolphin.
After about five minutes I spotted him as his back sliced through the surface at speed, he was closer to my side of this narrow body of water than there's! Once spotted the boats began they're pursuit and I merely moved on.
Approaching a prominent point along the increasingly rising cliffs I spotted the seabirds I had witnessed earlier at a greater distance, now slightly closer, the gannets really put on a natural spectacle.

A Gannet searching for a fish supper!

Gannets are our largest ocean going seabirds with a six-foot wingspan coloured largely with snow white weathers, a golden crown and with black wingtips. At close range their bluish beak can also be distinguished. They are superbly adapted to enter the sea from a height after spotting fish from the air as they have thickened skulls and even an airbag like system present within their chest to protect the internal organs from the strain that hitting a wall of water at around 100kmph at times!
Occasionally one would dive close by to which I would have to reassess my efforts in capturing this bird transform into a six-foot dart aiming to snag a fish supper under the surface. After some time and effort capturing mediocre shots from afar I decided to move on to a spot which seemed to attract various gannets to dive closer to shore much more consistently.
On rounding the next corner however I encountered yet another seabird at much closer quarters!

A Fulmar gliding within millimeters of the cliff face.

Fulmars were the clifftop kings of this corner cove and they showed little fear of me while gliding around on a combination of thermals and oceanic wind, even when they were literally withing a few feet of me. The fulmar resemble a gull to a point but they can be distinguished easily enough due to their square head and most crucially tubenose laying along the top of they're beak. The latter feature allows this bird to desalinate sea water in order to provide itself with drinking water while out at sea, it also identifies this bird as a relative of the albatross! The benefits of being a light weight bird really were on show as various fulmars swooped sometimes precariously close to the cliffs but the cons however, were apparent too. When a bird decided to land the updraft from the seas surface provided a stiff resistance to this individuals plans which were often abandoned to reattempt a landing which if successful was usually a very awkward affair.

After awhile I decided I had taken enough photos of these charismatic birds and moved on to the larger cluster of gannets diving nearby, who had split into two groups now. The new one was directly in front of where I had positioned myself last time! I quickly descended to take advantage of the birds close proximity but they decided to disperse so I returned to my original plan.
Upon reaching the highest part of the cliffs I was met by some hundred or so gannets either lounging on the surface in rafts or actively foraging, some very close to the cliffs. I duly began tracking birds close to the cliffs all the while keeping an eye out for any potential divers (which is not as easy as you'd think) after a few minutes I captured the final moments of a dive as I had intended. The gannets dive is something everyone should have up high on the bucket list, it begins and ends in seconds transpiring in one medium going into another and returning to the former. The gannet begins this process by gliding over the the sea, largely at height. Upon spotting fish below the surface it banks sharply on whatever side it chooses and starts to descend at speed,

moments before entering the water it folds both its wings straight back along its bodies length usually crossing its black wingtips to form an X,

Then it hits the water and becomes a water bird at depth having lead a tail of bubbles in its wake as it descended here it uses its folded wings to propel it to its prey. Once caught within the gannets beak the prey item is swallowed whole and the gannet makes a fast-paced ascent to the surface where it usually launches itself skyward after a running start.

I was fortunate to observe this behavior so close to land last weekend but these birds do on occasion feed close to shore and you won't have too much trouble spotting this large seabird plunge headfirst into the Atlantic should it occur while your seaside!

Encountering the "Kerry" Toad

Today I was out around Castlegregory in search of an amphibian I have wanted to come across for some time.

The Natterjack toad pond today.

The Natterjack Toad is the only native Toad species found in Ireland. It was first observed in 1805 around Castlemaine harbour, the tidal body of water found between the Dingle and Iveragh peninsulas just East of Inch strand. Since then there has been some localized extinctions and as such the Natterjack population now resides in a few heavens to the North and South of the Dingle peninsula.
This Toad species is believed to have colonized the country naturally after the last ice age which ended in and around 11,000 years ago as they share some genetic similarities with the nearest Toad population over in England.
Now you might be thinking, whats so great about this Toad?
Well it is unlike any of the three other amphibian species found on this island nation. The more widely known frog might on its preface seem similar to the Toad but its not by a long shot!
Physically the Natterjack is a much broader beast than the streamlined frog, they crawl along like four legged cowboys in stark contrast to the frogs fondness of leaping and they are also coloured differently with the toad possessing a diagnostic white line running along the top of its back. Even the toads tadpoles differ from the frogs, the latter being inundated by varying shades of browns where as the former is jet black and also a much broader built bundle of flesh.
The habitat of choice for this amphibian is a very surprising one for a freshwater inhabitant.. by the coast! They utilize the small freshwater ponds nestled in amongst the dune systems of Castlegregory along with and suitable bodies of water within their range.

The Natterjack's home-range has probably become reduced due to the increase in agriculture over the past century BUT there is a scheme in place nowadays encouraging local land owners where the toad is present to dig ponds, maintain them and not use any chemicals which could effect the toads which would also forage on land. The areas around the ponds are usually grazed by cattle in particular and this system has yielded results as last year was a bumper year for the counties population.

At the waters edge where the smaller tadpoles were.

Back to today, I discovered where to find some of these ponds and decided to chance my arm. April is the peak time for breeding and I initially wished to head back to Castlegregory's dune system to hear the chorus of Toads in the ponds and maybe catch sight of one or two in the flesh. This plan changed however and I arrived during the day where I could actually see where a pond was positioned.
Judging from the map of the ponds I obtained this morning, the roads position and the local geography of a particular stretch of dunes I quickly identified the position of a pond which was evidently the cause of a sudden submergence of the ground between two dunes.
On further inspection the pond itself was located. I found it very odd that such a body of freshwater could be found so close to the sea to both the East and West along with being lined by sand blown in from either of the two surrounding bays, it was akin to the surface of Mars!
It didn't take long to find the first signs of the toads as I peered into the ponds shallow waters for the first time I spotted some relatively small toad tadpoles near the waters edge. Once they could see my figure towering above them most made a break for the safety of some nearby submerged vegetation while others played dead. These tadpoles are loaded with toxins which do not agree with the micro predators found cruising our bodies of water and as such they have an advantage early on in life.

Some small tadpoles over the sandy bottom.

Carefully stepping forwards along the left side of the pond I kept a careful eye out for any lingering adult toads both on land and in water, t didn't take long to stumble upon my first toad albeit a bit more static than what I was going for but I'll take it. The thin and slightly wrinkled body of a Natterjack lay outstretched just at the waters edge. It's dark green back blotched by darker polka dots was raised skywards while it's unique back stripe remained clearly visible. Its left fore limb was tucked underneath its body and its eyes were shut. I think this individual was a female as evident by some strands of spawn near its hind legs, in the water nearby, wrapped around some vegetation lay even more coiled spawn so it appears this individual has done it's bit for the next generation. I do not know what happened to it but there was evidence of an even more toasted toad further up the shore line which may suggest that some animals expire after spawning.

My first rather lifeless Natterjack

Continuing the tour around this hidden oasis I came across far more developed tadpoles, one of which may even be in the early stages of developing legs!

While watching these larger tadpoles I heard a call completely out of tune to the circling gulls and singing skylarks. I left off short raspy sounds all of which came from a patch of marrm grass of the closest dune over looking the pond. I inspected the area to no avail due to the grasses thick coverage and while doing so must have spooked this individual which was undoubtedly a male toad calling out to any potential suitors.

Some strands of spawn weaving between the vegetation.

I doubled back around the pond for a final look before leaving to discover vast strains of spawn intermingled with the grasses and water mint amongst other vegetation present in the pond. The individuals occupying the spawn were at different stages of development so they were laid on different occasions which I find to be very unusual to the system used by frogs where they all congregate at once, Natterjacks however seem to be more particular in they're ways.

All in all I can't complain with the days results but I will be back for more very, very soon!

Looking down to the pond and on the Brandon bay further West.